Thursday, March 6, 2014

Exploring history : Kumbhalgarh (Rajasthan)


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Travel time : Aug 2013
Place: Kumbhalgarh Fort, Located 40 kms from Ranakpur(Rajasthan)

I have been to Ranakpur and Udaipur quite number of times. This time I wanted to explore places around them.
Randomly chose Kumbhalgarh

Kumbhalgarh is wild life reserve. Locals claim to see wild animals frequently. I didn't go into the Jungle, didn't had time for jungle safari, was just looking at the road sides to try my luck, but I had chance to see none. Since it was post monsoon, Jungle's beauty was at its best. Forest was covered with thick green blanket.. Even at distances I could see GREEN GREEN and only GREEN.
We reached Kumbhalgarh fort travelling through small roads and villages on the way. It was main season for Custard Apple(Sitafal), and there were many trees in that area. We came across many kids who were standing at road side, waving their hands and holding a basket full of Custard Apples. Since we did not buy any, can't tell whether those were good in taste.
We could see magnificent fort walls from very far. As we reached, we parked our vehicle near main gate and took entry tickets.
There is no guide facility provided by government and requires little bit trekking to reach atop.

We were lucky enough to meet a local guy who had visitors with him. He was telling them stories and guiding them through fort.
He allowed us joining him. If one sees from outside, the fort looks huge.
But due to NO MAINTENECE, which is common problem for most of monuments in India, the inner part of building was almost like ruins.

Guide showed us a hill where fort construction was planned initially. Story says that King Kumbha planned to construct the fort on hill top. But whatever constructed in day time use to get demolished in night. It was believed to be curse of Devi of that hill.
One of the kings trusted fellow came up with a solution. He suggested for human sacrifice and offered himself for the same. In his memory, a small temple built near the fort entrance. Only after this the fort was built.

Fort walls go around 36 KMs to encircle entire Kumbhalgarh village(read that as JUNGLE, but it’s not part of wild life reserve). Width of wall is 15 ft. In old times, when there was no email/courier services, to send important news/documents, a messenger needed to go on horse from one place to another. So the wall  is constructed to ensure that there is space for 5 horses to run on top of it while running parallel to each other. At some places the width is up to 25 ft. 
This is 2nd longest wall in the world, having its place just after the great wall of China[21,196 kms]. Of course, in India this is the first one. 
The fort consist of Birth place of Maharana Pratap, the rooms where he lived and was brought up. One of the common area had a circular structure. In old times when there was no electricity, that circular area was used to set flame (Jwala). The flame was fed with around 100 kg cotton and pure ghee. It used to make the flame so high, that not only outside the fort, it use to give light to entire village. And village farmers could continue with farming activities even after sunset. It sounded like set of halogens ;)
One part of upper fort is Rani Mahal and other Badal Mahal[King's palace]. In Rani mahal there is a special Shringar graha(Makeup room) for the queen. Around half of the rooms are closed, not sure if its done for safety or to reduce maintenance. 
The best part of fort is the Terrace of Badal Mahal!! An image of Rajasthan with sand all around gets completely vanished when you reach at top point of the fort. With wind blowing on you face, you can see entire Kubhalgarh Jungle just under your nose. Now I know why Kumbha chose this place to build his fort. One can enjoy amazing views from top of the fort.
We spent around an hour sitting there at ease.[Just to mention - Terrace is small one, with no chairs or sitting place, we were lazily sitting on the floor which had no tiles, not a good place to leave you kids unattended.]
Kumbhalgarh have a light and sound show every evening 7 PM and there is one camel ride available at the entrance itself. We didn't take either. :)
After visiting the fort, we went to Shiva temple near which light and sound show is held. That place gives a good view of entire fort.
There are many temples constructed within boundaries of Kumbhalgarh. Those were visible from top but amidst jungle on small hill tops. Though we clicked some photos with zoom lens, we felt sad that we couldn't visit those temple amidst green. Anyways those temples were locked :( .
There are around 360 temples within Kumbhalgarh, out of which 300 are Jain temples (Not even a single one open for visit). There is a Ganesh Temple, Parshwanath Jain Temple and Shiva Temple close to the fort. But since regular pooja is not done at all places, only Shiva Temple is open for public.
With sun setting behind the fort, we could see a shadow image of the fort. We went behind the shiva temple, it gave us another beautiful view of the jungle.  
I would say, it was worth visit. Unlike other forts/palaces, don't expect museums/guides/beautifully carved pillars/marble statues/paintings/gold and silver stuffs.
If you are the one looking for a relaxing trip and a dip to history, you should go there with sufficient time to be spent lazily, relaxing on the terrace of fort..and walking on top of the walls.. enjoy greenery around.

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